One of the first projects I started on was my bed loft! It was really easy to design and assemble, and of course – its really an integral part of living in a van. I started this well before I’d actually be able to use it. I gravitated toward it because I knew exactly what I wanted. Everything else is designed to fit around the bed, so I think it was a safe bet to make the loft first.
The first thing I think everyone should ask themselves when deciding to live in a van, is this:
Will I have the energy and discipline to put away my bedding every morning and set it up every night?
If the answer is no, then you need a ‘permanent’ bedding area. If the answer is [realistically] yes, then lucky you – you get more space for other things! (Check out this YouTube video for more perspective.)
This was a tough decision for me. The VW bus, specifically, is one of the smallest living spaces on the market as far as van life goes. Not including the space above the engine, you have a 5′ x 5′ space that you can’t stand up straight in. The Westfalia pop-tops allow for this, but LuLu isn’t one. In order to maximize living space, a fold out bed like the VW Rock and Roll is really the best choice. Many vans are equipped with beds oriented perpendicular to the van as well. And even others with a dining area that converts into a bed.
As for me, I decided on a loft. Why? Because I don’t even make my bed. I know good and well I’m not going to put everything away every morning (and the Rock and Roll is pretty pricey, too). The width of the interior of the VW bus is also a modest 5′. I’m a stretcher, so its not a viable option for my 5’7″ self.
My design was inspired by Kendall & Glenn, whom you can check out over on YouTube. It was important to me that with a permanent bed set-up, that I be able to easily access storage area below my bed, so I went with a hinged design like you can see in the video. I also wanted something that was easily movable, so the legs fold in and the loft folds in half. This makes it easy to remove to access the engine compartment if needed and if I want, I can set up shop outside under the stars!
The Process
This project is based off the measurements for a standard twin-sized bed. The width can be extended to whatever size you need. Length can be adjusted as well with some additional adjustments to the slat spacing. This design is also designed specifically to the engine compartment depth of the 1973 VW bus – other years and models will likely vary. This also means it was designed with 2 legs in mind as opposed to 4. Additional legs can be added in the same manner for both designs (since they fold). You can even maximize storage space under the bed by adding legs over the engine compartment. Draw out your own plans to customize it completely or find mine over on Patreon! Read to the end to see my tips as well as a reference for standard bed sizes.
List of Supplies Needed:
- 3 – 2x4s cut to 35 3/4″
- 3 – 2x4s cut to 40 1/4″
- 4 – 1x4s cut to 39″
- 9 – 1x3s cut to 39″
- 2″ Wood Screws
- Industrial adhesive (I use Liquid Nails) and caulk gun if required
- Drill and drill bit
- 2 – 3″ hinges (you made need to add an additional hinge if making a loft for a larger sized bed)
- 2 – 1 1/2″ hinges (for legs)
- 2 – 3×3 posts
Note: This loft is assembled in two separate halves, which are then connected by hinges. I will refer to the shorter half as “Half A” and the longer half as “Half B”.
Assembling Half A
Step 1: Gather all three 35 3/4″ 2x4s, two 1x4s, and four 1x3s.
Step 2: Assemble the frame by spacing two 2x4s so that it measures 39″ across. Lay a 1×4 spanning from one 2×4 to the other so that all edges are square.
Step 3: If using a caulk gun for this step, cut tip to 1/8″. Spread a 2-3″ length of adhesive on the edge of the 2x4s and carefully press the 1×4 into place.
Step 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3 with the other 1×4 at the other end of the 2x4s. You made need to make minor positioning adjustments at this time so that both ends are square and flush, creating the outer frame of Half A. Let dry.
Step 5: Mark the center of your final 2×4 at both ends. Mark the center of each 1×4 by measuring 19.5″ from the edge of the frame.
Step 6: Flip the frame upside down so its on its back.
Step 7: Spread a 2-3″ length of adhesive on each end the edge of the 2×4 and place on the center of the frame, lining up the marks you made in Step 5. Press into place. Let dry.
Step 8: Lay slats (with 1×4’s now facing up). Slats will have 3 3/4″ spacing between them. Take a tape measure and measure 3 3/4″ from the 1×4 you have placed at one end. Mark this distance on the 2×4. Repeat on the opposite 2×4. Spread a 1-2″ length of adhesive along the bottom of your first slat. Line it up with both lines and press into place. For the next slat, measure 3 3/4″ from the edge of this slat. Repeat with all four slats, gluing them into place. Set aside and let dry.
Assembling Half B
Step 1: Gather remaining 2x4s measuring 40 1/4″, two 1x4s, and five remaining 1x3s.
Step 2: Repeat steps 1-7 as listed for Half A.
Step 3: The gap in between each of the slats of Half B is measured at 3 7/16″. Take a tape measure and measure 3 7/16″ from the 1×4 you have placed at one end. Mark this distance on the 2×4. Repeat on the opposite 2×4. Spread a 1-2″ length of adhesive along the bottom of your first slat. Line it up with both lines and press into place. For the next slat, measure 3 7/16″ from the edge of this slat. Repeat with all five slats, gluing them into place. Set aside and let dry.
Assembling Loft
Step 1: Starting with Half A, measure 13″ from the outer edge of the 1×4 of your choice and mark. Measure 13″ from your mark and make another mark. This should dividing your platform into thirds.
Step 2: Take one of your hinges and center it over one of the marks you made in Step 1. Make sure the hinge will fully close in on itself so that you can fold the loft in half. Mark each hole. Repeat for the other hinge/mark.
Step 3: Repeat steps 1 and 2 on Half B. When marking Half B, make sure that it is lined up with Half A. There should be equal distances between the 1×4’s all the way across. If the hinge is tilted at all, it will cause the loft to close imperfectly/crooked.
Step 4: Using the appropriate drill bit, drill pilot holes at the marks you made in steps 1-3 for your hinges (on both halves).
Step 5: Drill pilot holes into each 1×3 and 1×4 where it crosses the 2×4 underneath it. Make sure you are drilling through the slat into the 2×4. I used 2 per board per 2×4, so 6 screws for each board. Do this for both halves.
Step 6: Screw in the hinges to Half A using the pilot holes you just drilled.
Step 7: Line up Half B with Half A. Screw the hinges to Half B. You now have a single bed loft!
Step 8: Add screws to each pilot hole you made in Step 5 to complete the platform for the bed.
Adding Legs (optional)
Step 1: Determine how high off the ground you want your loft to be. Keep in mind this measurement will be from the underside of the 1×4 to the ground (NOT the 2×4 braces). Cut both 3x3s to size.
Step 2: Orient your hinge on the back of your 3×3 post so that the legs will fold fully flush against the underside of the loft. Mark the holes on the post.
Step 3: Drill pilot holes into the marks you just made.
Step 4: Screw hinge onto post, making sure that the hinge is still oriented correctly (I didn’t, so I had to re-do one entire leg).
Step 5: Align leg and hinge to bed frame, marking onto the end 1×4 where the holes will be for the hinge.
Step 6: Screw hinge into frame.
Step 7: Repeat steps 2-6 on each leg you plan to add to your loft.
Note: I recommend adding locks and braces both at the hinge and when the legs are folded under. This is so when the bed is open it resists folding and the legs can be secured under the bed when not needed. At the time of this writing, I have not done this but I will be adding it to this tutorial at a later date.
Check out the completed bed loft! I’m thrilled with how it came out.
Resources & Tips for Making Your Own Bed Loft
Twin: 38″ x 75″
Twin XL: 38″ x 80″
Full: 54″ x 74″
Queen: 60″ x 80″
Calculator to determine slat spacing
Tip 1: Think about how you use your bed. I wanted very little extra space below my mattress so I wouldn’t hit my feet or legs.
Tip 2: This is a weight-bearing structure, so I chose to purchase lumber. Keep this in mind if you want to use reclaimed wood.
Tip 3: Using both screws and construction adhesive contribute to the sturdiness and life of the structure.
Keep an eye out on Patreon where I will post the free blueprint for my design. Consider joining because there’s lots of cool stuff over there and it helps me make content like this!
Questions? Ask below!
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